Smoking and Drinking in Tokyo: Best Izakayas and Bars That Still Allow Smoking Inside
Updated 2026
While Tokyo's indoor smoking regulations have tightened significantly in recent years, many traditional izakayas, bars, and pubs still legally permit smoking at the table. Understanding the legal exemptions helps you find establishments where you can enjoy a drink and a smoke simultaneously.
Quick TL;DR
- Point 1: Under the Health Promotion Act of 2020, small establishments meeting specific criteria (capital size and floor space) are legally exempt from the indoor smoking ban.
- Point 2: Look for the official Smoking Permitted (喫煙可能店) sticker displayed clearly at the entrance of izakayas and bars.
- Point 3: Many historic nightlife alleys, such as Omoide Yokocho and Harmonica Yokocho, feature a high concentration of smoking-friendly venues.
How Tokyo's Indoor Smoking Laws Apply to Bars
In April 2020, Japan implemented the revised Health Promotion Act, which banned indoor smoking at most restaurants and public facilities. However, the legislation carved out a major exemption for small-scale food and beverage establishments. To legally allow smoking at dining tables, a venue must have been open before April 1, 2020, have a customer seating area of 100 square meters or less, and have a capital stock of 50 million JPY or less.
This means that family-run izakayas, cozy bars, and traditional watering holes make up the majority of smoking-friendly venues in Tokyo. Conversely, large corporate chains, family restaurants, and newer establishments are strictly non-smoking, though some may offer small, designated indoor smoking booths where food and drinks are prohibited.
Age Restriction Warnings
Any establishment that allows indoor smoking is legally required to ban individuals under the age of 20 (the legal smoking and drinking age in Japan) from entering. This rule applies even if the underage individual is accompanied by an adult, making smoking-friendly izakayas unsuitable for families.
Top Districts for Smoking-Friendly Nightlife
If you are looking for districts with a high concentration of venues where you can smoke and drink, focus on Tokyo's historic nightlife hubs. These areas are famous for tiny, closely-packed bars that preserve traditional drinking culture.
- Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku): Often called "Memory Lane," this narrow alleyway near Shinjuku Station's west exit features dozens of tiny yakitori stalls, many of which permit smoking.
- Golden Gai (Shinjuku): A collection of over 200 micro-bars. Because of their tiny footprints, a significant portion of these bars permit smoking at the counter.
- Nonbei Yokocho (Shibuya): "Drunkard's Alley" offers a quiet, nostalgic atmosphere with several small bars that allow customers to smoke indoors.
- Hoppy Dori (Asakusa): Famous for street-side dining and stew dishes, many of the semi-outdoor and indoor seating areas here are smoking-friendly.
Comparing Izakaya Types and Smoking Policies
Navigating Tokyo's dining scene requires knowing which style of venue is more likely to accommodate smokers. Use this breakdown to plan your evenings.
| Venue Type | Typical Smoking Policy | Entrance Sign to Look For |
|---|---|---|
| Traditional Izakaya (Small) | Smoking permitted at all seats | 喫煙可能店 (Smoking Permitted) |
| Large Chain Izakaya | Completely non-smoking, or has designated booths | 公衆喫煙所 (Smoking Booth Only) |
| British/Irish Pubs | Non-smoking dining areas with separate glass booths | 分煙 (Divided Smoking) |
| Yakitori Alleys (Yokocho) | Highly smoking-friendly at counter seats | Varying stickers per stall |
Tips for a Respectful Drinking Experience
While smoking inside these establishments is legal, practicing proper etiquette ensures a smooth experience with staff and fellow patrons.
Before entering, check the door or window for the official government sticker indicating whether smoking is permitted, restricted to heated tobacco, or entirely banned.
If you are unsure, point to your cigarette and ask, "Tabako daijobu desu ka?" (Is smoking okay?).
Many small, smoking-friendly bars and izakayas charge a small seating fee called Otoshi (typically 300 JPY to 800 JPY), which comes with a small appetizer.
Find a Legal Smoking Spot Right Now
Find the nearest legal smoking area in Tokyo right now.
Open Interactive Tokyo Smoking Map